About 75 kms from Chennai, the capital city of the southern state of Tamil Nadu in India, lies the small town of Kanchipuram, renowned as the “City of a Thousand Temples”. This sacred site is a prominent Hindu pilgrimage destination, known not only for its spiritual significance but also as a major weaving hub in India.
Despite its modest size of merely 36 square kilometers, Kanchipuram has gained international acclaim for its exquisite Kanjivaram sarees, handcrafted by the town’s skilled silk weavers. It has made an indelible mark on the world map with the ethereally beautiful Kanjivaram sarees. In 2005, the Government of India awarded Kanchipuram silk sarees a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, recognizing their unique cultural and regional identity.
According to Hindu mythology, the weavers of Kanchipuram are believed to be descendants of Sage Markandeya, a master weaver for Lord Shiva, who is said to have woven delicate fabrics from lotus fibre for the deities.
Kanjivaram sarees are considered highly auspicious and are an integral part of the bridal attire in southern India. Today, these sarees are cherished by women across the country, transcending regional and religious boundaries. Typically, Kanjivaram sarees feature bright colours, with the pallu (the decorative end piece) and borders often in contrasting hues to the body of the saree. Regular sarees are adorned with gold zari work on the borders and pallu, while bridal sarees are richly embellished with gold zari throughout. The motifs on these sarees are inspired by temple architecture, regional flora, and fauna, with designs like peacocks (symbolizing beauty and richness), mangoes (representing abundance and affluence), and the mythical twin-headed bird, Pakshi, being particularly popular.
Modern influences, including Banarasi jaal work and contemporary artistic elements, are now seen in Kanjivaram sarees. In addition to traditional gold zari, newer versions incorporate silver, copper, and pink zari, reflecting evolving tastes and styles. Locally, these sarees are referred to as “pattu sarees”, and are crafted from mulberry silk sourced from the southern states of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Andhra Pradesh.
Among the different styles of Kanjivaram sarees, the Korvai Pattu is a classic example, characterized by the separate weaving of the saree’s body, borders, and pallu, which are then interlocked to create a cohesive piece. This technique is unique to Kanjivaram sarees.
Another notable variant is the Vairaoosi Kanjivaram, where a metallic zari thread runs through the entire length of the saree, giving it a luxurious sheen.
In recent times, more affordable power loom versions of soft silk Kanjivarams have become widely available, causing concern among traditional weavers. However, history has shown that authentic craftsmanship often endures despite modern imitations, and there is room for both traditional and contemporary styles to coexist and thrive in the expanding market.
